Sorghum Syrup or Sorghum Molasses - The Sweet and Sour Sugar Alternative It's Time to Embrace
Sorghum Syrup (also called sorghum molasses) is made from the juice that is pressed from sweet sorghum grass. The juice is then cooked down and caramelized to produce a rich, thick syrup, similar in viscosity to honey or agave nectar. Prior to World War II, it was fairly common across the United States as an alternative to honey or molasses. It is still commonly used in the American South as a topping for biscuits, grits and hot cereal. It can also be used in baking cookies and sweet breads (like gingerbread or spice cake).
To me, sorghum has always tasted like a blend between a sour wildflower honey and bitter blackstrap molasses. Alongside notes of rich, caramelized sweetness, you'll also find acidity, bitterness and minerality. Similar to molasses, sorghum has the added benefit of being high in potassium, calcium and iron. It contains a similar amount of sugar per oz as honey does (higher than white sugar, maple syrup or blackstrap molasses), meaning you can use less of it to achieve a similar level of perceived sweetness in your recipe.
Each producer's growing or sourcing methods for their sorghum cane, as well as their juicing and cooking procedures in production, impacts the texture and flavor profile of the final product. I suspect, though I have yet to come across an expert resource for this, that you the unique flavor profiles in each sorghum reflect not only the production methods used, but the terroir the sweet sorghum cane was grown in. Perhaps those that have higher mineraltiy or complexity were grown in richer soil? Or perhaps the sorghum cane was exposed to more or less hydration during the growing season? In any case, they are all slightly different, which makes me love them even more.
For the last few years I have bought sorghum every time I have run across a new producer. I usually have 3 to 5 types in my cupboard at any given time. Currently, I have these three in rotation: Muddy Pond Sorghum (Muddy Pond, TN), Peaceful Valley Farm's Pure WNC Sorghum Syrup (Old Fort, NC), and Johnson's Sweet Sorghum (Limestone, TN). For the purpose of this post, I broke these three products down by examining each for their perceived sweetness, acidity, bitterness and umami (savory qualities).
For the last few years I have bought sorghum every time I have run across a new producer. I usually have 3 to 5 types in my cupboard at any given time. Currently, I have these three in rotation: Muddy Pond Sorghum (Muddy Pond, TN), Peaceful Valley Farm's Pure WNC Sorghum Syrup (Old Fort, NC), and Johnson's Sweet Sorghum (Limestone, TN). For the purpose of this post, I broke these three products down by examining each for their perceived sweetness, acidity, bitterness and umami (savory qualities).
Top: Johnson's Sweet Sorghum Bottom Left: Peaceful Valley WNC Sorghum Syrup Bottom Right: Muddy Pond Sorghum |
JOHNSON'S SWEET SORGHUM (Limestone, TN)
Tasting Notes: sourwood honey, vanilla, gingerbread
- Sweet: of all three, this tastes the most like honey and is the most intensely sweet
- Acid: medium acidity; pleasant astringency on the back-end
- Bitter: mild bitterness; does not linger
- Umami: subtle notes of warm gingerbread, black tea, and mild toasted oak
PEACEFUL VALLEY WNC SORGHUM SYRUP (Old Fort, NC)
Tasting Notes: rich caramel, oak, meyer lemon, granite
- Sweet: sweetness is direct up front, but is then cut and overcome by the bitter and umami notes as it lingers on the palate
- Acid: medium to high acidity, like meyer lemon; harsh acidity on back of throat at the very end
- Bitter: plenty of bitter, puckering notes that hit abruptly after the sweetness fades
- Umami: medium to high minerality, like taking a B Vitamin; rich savory notes reminiscent of lebkuchen cookies or heavily caramelized roast apples
**NOTE: Of the three, this syrup had started to crystallize slightly, although I do not think that impacted the flavor much. I do believe it is an indication, in addition to the dark color, of the amount of time or heat that was applied in cooking it down. Also, "WNC" stands for western North Carolina.
MUDDY POND SORGHUM (Muddy Pond, TN)
Tasting Notes: caramel, granny smith apple, bitter greens
- Sweet: medium to high acidity; it would be too sweet, if it didn't have such a complex umami and bitter character
- Acid: medium acidity; tart granny smith apple
- Bitter: well balanced with the sweetness; bitterness reminiscent of dandelion greens
- Umami: probably the most intensely earthy and complex of the three; has notes of sweet soil, oak, and burnt sugar
HOW CAN YOU USE IT?
I use sorghum as a sugar alternative in just about every form. It is versatile in it's ability to stand up to strong flavors like whiskey or coffee, as well as play nicely with winter spices in gingerbread or spice cake. Pour some on top of your cornbread or oatmeal. Drizzle some over apple crisp. I often add a tablespoon to savory dishes like ratatouille or beef stew.
Check out my recipe for a Sorghum Sour.
Check out my recipe for a Sorghum Sour.
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